tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7276891848416723112024-03-19T05:41:27.786-04:00Elba Farm HouseHistory, renovation, and stories of daily life in an old Elba Township farm house.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger97125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-17479004459559381262019-09-05T10:25:00.000-04:002019-08-05T10:00:40.966-04:00Pole BarnSome of our larger equipment (tractor, backhoe, wood chipper, etc.) has taken up a lot of space in the garage for quite a while. Outdoor toys for the kids and woodworking tools also get used in those spaces which creates quite a mess. After several failed attempts to organize and clean up the spaces it became clear that we could use some additional storage to keep items out of the weather. We decided to build a pole barn to use for shop tasks and storing the heavy equipment.<br />
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We had to apply for a variance from the township to have the barn positioned where we wanted it. Since our property is zoned RA - Agricultural our allowable setback from the side lot line was 25 feet. To get the barn between two existing tree lines we applied for and were granted a 12 foot variance to bring the required setback to 13 feet.<br />
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With the variance out of the way we staked out the pole locations and had a stakeout inspection.<br />
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Once the stakeout inspection was done the topsoil was removed in the barn area.</div>
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Foundation holes were dug. Those also needed an inspection.</div>
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We ordered wood through Carter lumber. Once it started arriving the kids immediately invented games like, "walk the plank" and, "climb into & out of each space in the truss".<br />
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The holes were filled with concrete to the proper depth and poles were set.</div>
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Purlins are going up.</div>
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We needed lots of sand, about 120 yards to get to a good skirt board height for drainage.</div>
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Once all the wall panels were up my friend Paul came by to install the garage doors. </div>
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A 4" concrete floor was poured.</div>
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After floor cuts were made we gave it a quick pressure wash before construction started on the loft.</div>
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Paul came back out to adjust the door tilt and bring it level with the floor slab.</div>
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Here is the finished interior. </div>
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We worked late cleaning up the site.<br />
Declan had to see how the tractor fit in the new barn.</div>
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Not quite old enough, but he's eager to help out.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-16883723377777711912019-04-22T14:20:00.001-04:002019-04-22T15:06:29.817-04:00Bedroom RemodelTwo of the bedrooms on the second story were outdated and in need of a full remodel. They had old electrical wiring, an odd drop ceiling, peeling pink wall paper, non functional moldy windows, and an unlevel bouncy floor. With baby Ronan on the way and the holidays behind us we started gutting them to make them functional once again.<br />
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One of the rooms was being used simply to store "junk" that we didn't have a place for.</div>
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Here is the same room cleaned out.</div>
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The middle bedroom had some odd construction that needed to be torn out. The exterior walls had been built out to facilitate insulation. To get down to the original studs we took off drywall, some thin backer board, insulation, 1x1 studs, plaster, lathe, shiplap, and then finally whatever sparse insulation there was in between the original studs. Tearing out an exterior wall was like tearing out two. This resulted in a lot of construction debris.</div>
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The ceiling light wiring was just above the old dropped ceiling.</div>
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We'll have to rewire it from the attic.<br />
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There was a hole in the floor and the wall where there may have been an old stove exhaust pipe at one time. </div>
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Instead of bringing all the second story waste through the house we threw it out the window into the trailer then packed it into bagster bags for storage until we called in the final dumpster. The 3 yard bagsters were only $25 each and allowed us to move the waste to another area of the yard for sorting and disposal.<br />
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We got the rooms down to the original plaster. There were patches in the top portion where someone had tried to shove insulation into the walls. This should work in theory because the house is balloon framed but when we took the plaster and lathe out we found much of the wall sparsely insulated.<br />
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You could really feel the outside air rushing in between the old wood clapboard siding during the cold weather.<br />
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The old oak shiplap didn't come out easy but it needed to go if we were going to insulate the exterior walls properly. Lot's of sawzall and pry bar work.<br />
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This was one of the three old bird nests we found in the walls. They apparently had access to the attic somehow before we did our major renovation years ago.<br />
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The pine floor boards must have looked great when they were first installed. Here is the underside of one.<br />
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The floor in the end room (junk storage room) was about a 16 foot span done with 2x10 members. Building code specs 2x12 members for that span so we reinforced the floor by sistering 7 lvl boards to the existing joists.<br />
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New tab nailed windows were installed. We chose Anderson 400 series since we have those in the house addition and they have worked out quite well.<br />
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There was still a lot of work to be done gutting the walls and preparing for insulation and electrical. We found some portions of the wall were missing when we peeled back the painted foam board previously used to finish the rooms.<br />
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More surprises behind the walls! The paper wasps had a square hole so they built a cubic nest.</div>
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With the rough electrical in it was time to start spraying some foam insulation. We used a closed cell formula for the first coat then followed that up with an open cell foam. The kits we used were from Foam It Green.We added some furring strips to bring the wall back out to match it's original depth.<br />
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The rooms had to be at a temperature of about 75-80 degrees to apply the foam. It was a hot summer and I'm sure our energy bill started to come down once we got these rooms sealed up.</div>
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After the spray foam was done it was time to hang the wall board.</div>
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We backed up the spray foam with some fiberglass to fill any voids. </div>
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This is the area where we will install a new closet door. </div>
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Since we have tall people in our family we notched the rafters above the new door location and installed a raised header to ensure the final door placement is acceptable. </div>
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Let the mud fest begin. Layering in and leveling all the voids, cracks, and gaps is a tedious process.</div>
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We used our <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2013/06/plaster-repair.html" target="_blank">plaster repair technique</a> in the areas where it separated from the lathe.</div>
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More patching along with securing the HVAC from the attic.</div>
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This is the start of the skim coating process on the ceiling.</div>
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Finishing up the ceiling skim coat with some heavy mud action around the HVAC.</div>
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The closet had it's own false ceiling we added some 1/4" drywall where heavy patches were needed to level out the walls.<br />
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We used maple to make some custom window stools and extension jambs for the windows.</div>
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Getting some primer on the walls really brings out all the tiny flaws that still need work. <br />
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The basement became the trim workshop.<br />
Laid it out to get two coats of paint on before installation.</div>
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We had to repair and change the swing of one of the <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2013/07/old-doors-emerge.html" target="_blank">old doors we found in the barn</a>. </div>
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Setting some straight trim next to the wall revealed a huge dip in the drywall so we had to do a monster patch job to flatten it out. </div>
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In the middle bedroom we went with a grey color to contrast the white trim.<br />
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We'll come back to the room doors at some point so they are no longer pink and off white.<br />
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In the east room we decided to make a bold color choice. We usually stick to white and greys but decided to take a risk and see how some green works out.</div>
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We finished up the trim and were waiting for the carpet installation at this point.</div>
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The carpet was installed and the kids were very anxious to move in right away.</div>
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At this point we still need to put curtains up and paint some doors but the rooms were functional again.</div>
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How long did it take?<br />
About 16 months working mostly on the weekends while enjoying life's other adventures.<br />
This little guy was born shortly after we started the project.<br />
Hopefully he'll enjoy the view for many years to come.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-85581376327893628572019-01-02T14:46:00.000-05:002019-01-02T14:47:22.549-05:00Road Reconditioning<br />
The road we use for access to our 33 acres of farm land has always been a bit mucky. Since it's being used more for our hunting lease and the condition is deteriorating we decided the do a bit of work on it.<br />
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The neighbor has a pond that drains excess water under the road so we patched the existing culvert and installed an extra culvert.<br />
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Declan was eager to helped fill the bucket so he could help dump it.</div>
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First of two loads of 21AA gravel for top dressing.</div>
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Laying out the last of the 1-3 crushed concrete.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-42588221832206923492018-10-18T10:55:00.002-04:002018-10-18T10:55:50.917-04:00Entry Crown<br />
We decided to tackle the crown moulding trim in the entry. This will be a 3 piece crown build up. The first step was to get a couple of coats of paint on the trim. We'll have to paint it again once it's up due to patching and splicing but this makes the final coats a bit easier and cuts down on the finish time considerably. <br />
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The trim we wanted came in 8ft sections so we had to splice a few of them together for the longer runs.<br />
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The first piece is up. We used spacer blocks to ensure the proper distance from the ceiling and wall, although one should be careful with this method as no wall or ceiling is perfectly flat. We also beveled the edges of the blocks to account for drywall mud in the corners.<br />
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When installing a crown build the corners need special attention. It's handy to have a model of the middle section glued up so you can line up the intersections with the top and bottom pieces.<br />
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On the nook area we had to strike some compromise between having the moulding level with the cabinet or with the ceiling. <br />
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having the moulding "flush" with the ceiling and wall really brings out the fact that the walls and ceiling are wavy from the drywall joint process.<br />
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After some patching, caulking, and touch up paint we're done.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-62035200576742853352017-05-31T13:33:00.000-04:002020-01-22T09:10:49.511-05:00Porch Staining ProjectThis Memorial Day weekend we tackled our porch staining project. The previous weekend we completed all the prep work of cleaning and applying wood brightener. Once the lumber dried out over the week it was ready to receive the stain and paint.<br />
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The fascia boards on the stairs and the rest of the porch will be painted white to match the railing and house. <br />
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We chose a stain product called "<a href="https://www.readyseal.com/" target="_blank">Ready Seal</a>" in the darkest color available, "Dark Walnut". It claims to be "goof proof" and to not result in lap marks as you work the product into the wood. It lived up to the outstanding reviews and applied quite well. We opted to use a brush for the entire project to ensure we got stain into any visible gaps between the boards. If we reapply in a few years we could use a roller (slowly) or pad applicator.<br />
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Jessica's master cutting in work kept the stain job nice and neat.</div>
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Over the next few days the sheen on the stain soaked in for a more uniform finish. </div>
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We will be touching up some fascia board areas near the ground over the next couple of weeks but the majority of the work is complete. <br />
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We also found some time to rehang the lights onto the windmill tower. There were many weeks of prep work on this project including running electrical service out to the tower as well as building and water proofing conduit the lights hang on.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-60012328479217514522017-04-28T10:03:00.002-04:002017-04-28T10:03:20.616-04:00Taking Projects Around the House to New HeightsApril 1st, 2017 I went south to Kentucky for a two day arborist climbing course with <a href="http://www.climbtreeswithearthjoy.com/" target="_blank">EarthJoy Tree Adventures</a>. They facilitate quick introductory climbing sessions for fun as well as the training program I enrolled in. When I arrived at their property I was greeted by an old farm house, a lot of the architectural features inside this house reminded me of similar construction in our home.<br />
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On your way back along the trail to the primary training areas you pass by a custom tree house featured on the Animal Planet show "Treehouse Masters".<br />
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You can see more of the tree house here: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcgiwuffimM">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcgiwuffimM</a><br />
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Unfortunately, the focus required for the course didn't warrant the distraction of a camera during the training so I don't have pictures from the climbs. I did get a break after the courses to check out the Germantown and Maysville, KY area. Here is a shot of the small bridge over the Ohio river connecting Kentucky and Ohio.<br />
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A couple of weeks later the weather was nice enough to get some practice trimming trees around our property. This walnut was a good sturdy tree to try out some hand pruning. I'll also be rigging branches down, removing some larger limbs ominously hanging over our small garage.<br />
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For work positioning I'm using the Hitch Hiker 2 friction device in a dynamic double rope technique (DdRT). My configuration for ascent is known as the "rope walker" system.</div>
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The kids are enjoying spending more time outdoors in the nicer weather. They got creative with the neighbors and built this fort using a pile of left over lumber from our construction projects, complete with a chimney and downspout. <br />
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There must be some great spring season roadkill in the vicinity, a fleet of turkey vultures have been using our barn as their airport.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-66204542985054845332017-04-07T13:54:00.004-04:002017-12-07T09:15:14.203-05:00Back to the Doors<br />
Since the bathroom remodel is complete we've been working on some smaller projects around the house. Mainly, this has involved refinishing the doors we found in the barn and hung as part of the house addition.<br />
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There was a lot of scraping and sanding that took place to get the door back down to the smooth original surface. Simply painting over what was there would have resulted in a rather poor finish.<br />
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The old latch cartridge in the door will need some refinishing, lube, and a fresh black coat of paint. <br />
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We wire brushed and scrapped the old paint off the door hardware, tapped off the non painted areas, then use etching primer and flat black spray paint to finish them.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-79705155306459203192016-12-19T09:58:00.000-05:002017-01-23T12:11:46.069-05:00Bathroom Remodel: Phase VII - Finishing UpWith only the cabinet crown moulding, knobs, and mirror to install we'll bring this project series to a close. We are still going to reset and properly slope the shower sill and make a few other little repairs and paint touch ups but the major work on the bathroom is now complete.<br />
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<a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel-phase-i-plan-costs.html" target="_blank">Take a look back at how it all started.</a></div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-1495005518811438092016-11-30T07:51:00.003-05:002016-12-15T15:06:58.239-05:00Bathroom Remodel: Phase VI - Moving on & Making ProgressWe are going to try to make the best of the <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/11/bathroom-remodel-phase-v-issues.html" target="_blank">issues</a>. We'll cover up what we can with floor mats and scrape and grind things into looking decent. We'll re-hang the lighting fixture and see what we can do to secure and straighten out some of the finish work in the bathroom....<br />
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Deep breath.... moving on....<br />
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This past weekend I installed all of the crown moulding. We just need a final paint cut in and to brush out some of the brad nailing patches.<br />
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Baseboard moulding is progressing around the perimeter, we can't finalize some cuts until the cabinets are in.<br />
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Baseboard around the toilet is done. </div>
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We installed the shower head. Its a combination rain head and handheld unit.<br />
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We picked up our quartz counter top from Menards. I must say, I'm quite impressed with the quality, the look, and all the extras the counter top came with. They provided black silicone caulk as well as some special tooling spray, a device to tool the caulk, and a pack of shims.<br />
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The faucet was mounted onto the counter top and the whole assembly was mounted onto the shimmed and leveled vanity base. The wall was not level so it doesn't sit flush but that's no surprise considering all of the issues in this bathroom.<br />
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It turns out that the contractor didn't follow our plan and somehow placed the HVAC vent such that it partially ended up behind the planned taller cabinet. So we had to move it. This took about a day of work<br />
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We had to cut a new hole about 8 inches over and an inch higher than the old one. We cut a filler piece and glued support backing on the inside of the wall. This allowed us to use a minimum amount of patching compound. We chose to use a plaster based patching compound to avoid cracking.<br />
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All patched and primed, ready for a couple final coats of paint.</div>
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This is the back side of the new HVAC location. We had to balance the duct clearance with reinforcing the stud that needed to be cut. Also, none of the wiring was supported with staples so we added some.</div>
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We ordered cabinets for the laundry room when we placed out bath cabinet order.</div>
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The projects never end.</div>
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Jess has been nice enough to let the dining room become a tool and project storage area for the time being. It's probably time to think about cleaning up since the holidays are just a couple weeks away.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-91534855679563574472016-11-30T07:50:00.003-05:002016-12-15T08:44:31.838-05:00Bathroom Remodel: Phase V - IssuesWell it looks like we found a contractor that performs substandard finish work in our area. James Dean Bruderick. This contractor has been asked to correct issues with the tile installation and plumbing as they were progressing but chose to work at a fast pace, not correct the issues, and moved along creating even more issues. There were many issues in violation of ANSI and TCNA standards as well as plumbing and electrical code. All by Mr. Bruderick of Creative Decor in Michigan.<br />
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It's very frustrating and disheartening as we worked very hard planning the bathroom remodel. It's unfortunate that the finish is not what we were expecting at this point.<br />
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Ref:<br />
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ANSI A108.02 section 4.3.8<br />
ANSI A108.02, Section 4.3.7<br />
Michigan Plumbing Code section 308.5 </div>
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These pictures are a subset of the issues. The tile job is botched and could stand to be completely gutted and redone to fully fix it. <br />
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This light fixture really didn't fit in the hole. James apparently tried to grind away at the joist above to get it to fit but since only the bottom of the joist was ground down it sat tilted in it's hole causing the light fixture to not sit flush with the ceiling. Also, probably not a good idea to grind away at supporting joists, just move the fixture over the 1/8th of an inch and make it right.<br />
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For some reason the electrical connections weren't clamped into the provided fixture junction box.<br />
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There were other electrical violations as well, many of the cables were not supported with any staples and one switch was wired incorrectly. </div>
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Hard to see in this picture but grout was left like this over many of the tiles.</div>
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Who does plumbing stub outs like this? There were no hangers behind the wall. A firm support helps keep torsion off the pex as you turn the valve on and off and prevents movement from expansion and contraction.</div>
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Also, when we were cutting the drain tube for the p-trap adapter the blade of the cutter nicked the hot supply line so I had to repair it, another reason the supplies should be hung properly away from the drain.<br />
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I've never heard of grouting the door jam to the tiles. I guess this is the quick way to avoid undercutting the jam properly.</div>
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For some reason a curve was cut into this tile. They could have simply put in another tile.</div>
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There were a few issues with the mosaic niches. We originally asked that they provide a 12" tall finished storage space, these are closer to 8" since Mr. Bruderick didn't account for the width of the backer board or the tile and mortar. If you look closely at these three mosaics you'll notice the bottom panel actually slopes down as the pattern goes to the right, it was installed crooked. Also, we specified that the mosaic detail strip that goes around the shower should BISECT the middle niche. I didn't know that definition of "bisect" needed much clarification. There is also a slight slope to the detail strip to the right of the niches.<br />
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And one of the most egregious errors James Dean made was the installation of the shower sill. The marble sill plate was installed such that it sloped out toward the main bath floor and not into the shower. This caused any water that hit the glass door to drip down to the sill and out into the bathroom rather than back into the shower.<br />
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This seems like a very basic thing, odd to have it done incorrectly:</div>
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Tile work brought to you by James Dean Bruderick of Creative Decor at 6917 Sanilac Rd., Kingston, MI 48741<br />
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When we asked for corrections to the tile work James Dean Bruderick simply gave statements like, "lippage is a challenge" and "I have done more then [sic] 50 showers in the last 5 years, Yours is beautiful"<br />
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When asked about code violations James Dean Bruderick offered to correct them if we "really felt" that is was necessary. I wasn't aware that basic code requirements were about feelings.<br />
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We also inquired about other aspects of the job (like construction of the shower pan) with James Dean Bruderick and he gave responses like, "The shower is installed 100% correctly, are we really going there?" That seems like an odd response rather than simply answering the questions. Also, it turned out that some things were in fact not 100% correct.<br />
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Blowing off questions, not addressing/fixing concerns, lack of a punch list, code violations, use Creative Decor at your own risk.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-74912573227802376142016-10-31T10:57:00.001-04:002016-11-30T08:01:18.719-05:00Bathroom Remodel: Phase IV - Tile<br />
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Backer board for the floor is ready for tile.</div>
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Shower floor is tiled.</div>
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Ceiling tile is going up.</div>
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Detail strip is set, ready for grout.</div>
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Detail strip flows into the niche boxes. </div>
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Those sticky notes are being used to tag some of the issues we found with the tile job, little did we know that this was only the beginning of the <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/11/bathroom-remodel-phase-v-issues.html" target="_blank">problems we were going to have with the contractor's work</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel-phase-iii-construction.html" target="_blank">Check out the previous tasks and rough construction.</a></div>
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Also, the kids got some pumpkin carving done in time for Halloween! </div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-12031515771318745882016-10-26T09:06:00.000-04:002016-10-31T15:59:47.466-04:00Bathroom Remodel: Phase III - Construction Begins<br />
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Light and fan electrical going in.</div>
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The vent line from the addition, new vents will tie into this running to the outside back porch.</div>
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First of two sheets of drywall needed to bring the wall flush with the door frame. </div>
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A little framing for the old basement door.</div>
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The neo angle shower is framed in covered with cement board and dry walled. </div>
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Here are the shower niches. </div>
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Plumbing almost set in the vanity area. </div>
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HVAC Location moved and tied into the furnace. </div>
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New switch location. </div>
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Roughed and drywall cut for the vent fan / light combo in the shower. </div>
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The toilet area. It's about 7 more inches than what we had before but still not the 36" we were planning for. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj3Rtbk4olORgKOvMqhRSvdcqKwEf3LBgi_xptTlLCZEYcB9oeM7KBh-vpFj7uLqGWnkHAX5udmfsVxi4lYT4gg5fXN7GhdzI42ygxpBcaPAIYHEKrgNONpARDgIk2T5V-pPAJORuyz41B/s1600/20161025_173628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj3Rtbk4olORgKOvMqhRSvdcqKwEf3LBgi_xptTlLCZEYcB9oeM7KBh-vpFj7uLqGWnkHAX5udmfsVxi4lYT4gg5fXN7GhdzI42ygxpBcaPAIYHEKrgNONpARDgIk2T5V-pPAJORuyz41B/s640/20161025_173628.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We opted to pull out the vent above the shower entrance and just use another light fan combo over the toilet.</div>
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Looking into the bathroom from outside the entry door. </div>
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Revamping the basement drains. </div>
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Re-plumbing the supply lines for the house. </div>
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<a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel.html" target="_blank">Check out Phase II - Demolition</a> Or <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel-phase-iv-tile.html" target="_blank">Phase IV - Tile</a></div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-33970518126344191422016-10-21T14:09:00.000-04:002016-10-26T09:08:17.290-04:00Bathroom Remodel: Phase II - DemolitionOur first floor bathroom has been in need of an update for the last half century. The plaster walls were covered with a veneer of fiber board which was then painted. Over the years cracks developed around the edges of the board and the top coat of patching and paint crumbled away making the wall quite unsightly. For this project we will be demoing the room down to the original studs. Removing the fiberboard, old horse hair plaster, then the lath will be a messy task.<br />
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Looking into the bathroom from the doorway.</div>
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The old vanity with a solid surface top was cracking and on it's last leg.</div>
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Old style ball lights and surface mount medicine cabinet.</div>
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The drop ceiling always made the room seem a bit smaller than it had to be.</div>
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Old tub stall with stained walls and peeling caulk.</div>
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Taking the drop ceiling out revealed some interesting electrical runs and some of the old wall paper.</div>
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The old tub area severely crowded the toilet area. </div>
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Someone left their jet engine above the tub.</div>
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I may have a couple of little helpers in the near future.</div>
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The false ceiling above the tub and toilet were removed. </div>
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The next step was to start peeling the walls off down to the studs. None of it came down easy. It was peeled off one slat at a time. Most of the plaster crumbled off once the lath was pried off.<br />
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As each section of the wall came off it had enough material to fill up the
bathroom with junk. This created a continuous secondary job of bagging
and carting out the trash just to make room to work. <br />
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Toilet is out. Two more walls to go.</div>
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Tub is finally cleaned out and removed. </div>
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I think we will donate the vanity and sink to the ReStore in Flint. </div>
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Just managing the trash was a big job.</div>
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We probably ended up with about 20 bags of plaster and other junk by the time the walls were all down.<br />
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This will probably be the final update as the demolition is now complete. It took a weekend and 4 days of after day job effort but it's finally done.<br />
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Before <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2013/01/addition-plans.html" target="_blank">the addition</a> the only way to get into the basement from inside the house was to use this door in the bathroom.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYVPDoous90t50vl1rPuA0g3RbBrXeLB8kNKGwE2CC4ZgCfy5-s2WJtK34z2Lgw3NAC3QMl78HtutI4zXVjk5leQj9Uf-w9hbIEHekLww3vNVPN_sDk749vsBbpcWjU_5rIbCxYlVAzcMA/s1600/basement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYVPDoous90t50vl1rPuA0g3RbBrXeLB8kNKGwE2CC4ZgCfy5-s2WJtK34z2Lgw3NAC3QMl78HtutI4zXVjk5leQj9Uf-w9hbIEHekLww3vNVPN_sDk749vsBbpcWjU_5rIbCxYlVAzcMA/s320/basement.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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An old window opening that was behind the old tub wall. Here is what it now looks like inside that window opening. This will eventually become a closet for the room next to this bathroom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii7rPeed_004vFYY_Fz02vBPX4qJwQz5SzwDa8IRpj7q-krKxB3LKbx9In6kbMO0ZwBa6lky32WTN0HBtkIqaFbt7Rwcu833lf48navx4IN57oFjUn_h7sM5YbqiAVc1WsGwULay5xbE6k/s1600/behindtub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii7rPeed_004vFYY_Fz02vBPX4qJwQz5SzwDa8IRpj7q-krKxB3LKbx9In6kbMO0ZwBa6lky32WTN0HBtkIqaFbt7Rwcu833lf48navx4IN57oFjUn_h7sM5YbqiAVc1WsGwULay5xbE6k/s320/behindtub.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jhNOoX0sAgPyCcUuLbK4jRM08ZJEe6ifE7m61KW_IXxlClKTf-TCiKfoY61S70sIGiJ0DF032J-wgJ3vHjbv2WaaPjLMIsIkQaO2QV04XdBQvFRfwBi_4mqkyj5v-R4Wl4MeCzcbExjg/s1600/hidyhole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jhNOoX0sAgPyCcUuLbK4jRM08ZJEe6ifE7m61KW_IXxlClKTf-TCiKfoY61S70sIGiJ0DF032J-wgJ3vHjbv2WaaPjLMIsIkQaO2QV04XdBQvFRfwBi_4mqkyj5v-R4Wl4MeCzcbExjg/s320/hidyhole.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Newer plumbing from <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2013/01/addition-plans.html" target="_blank">the big addition project</a>. </div>
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We located the exhaust tubing that was put in during <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2013/01/addition-plans.html" target="_blank">the addition</a> construction. We'll tie into this for our new bath fan ventilation. <br />
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Tearing out the area around the toilet was an odd experience since this water damage <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2007/07/toilet-floor-rebuild.html" target="_blank">was one of the first things we ever repaired in the house</a>, before we even lived in it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6EK3D03MMf06DaKSFavQtEbKCEHG_XXj1wki_28MMCWcfCaOMiEsddx9TkydHzCOSefECis-1_CuGOwPK6PczjDlZWvDEnB1e_5p1y6iTal75XB5-IISXVXHEgvHIJvW38mJ0wqGSdxB/s1600/toiletwaterdam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6EK3D03MMf06DaKSFavQtEbKCEHG_XXj1wki_28MMCWcfCaOMiEsddx9TkydHzCOSefECis-1_CuGOwPK6PczjDlZWvDEnB1e_5p1y6iTal75XB5-IISXVXHEgvHIJvW38mJ0wqGSdxB/s400/toiletwaterdam.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzey0UXAvqT_UqftyMU20ICIOutHfsLoSgNbhjthaH_v54ML7gaAAllZjpAS0J_ETGjj7gY6rHPOxgLYvSz9nIyUctDnB-_7nNFojVFbG-zhaFtyjrQ2dI1ia7NF1GHy4WSNj1_gtH4d6T/s1600/toiletwater2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzey0UXAvqT_UqftyMU20ICIOutHfsLoSgNbhjthaH_v54ML7gaAAllZjpAS0J_ETGjj7gY6rHPOxgLYvSz9nIyUctDnB-_7nNFojVFbG-zhaFtyjrQ2dI1ia7NF1GHy4WSNj1_gtH4d6T/s400/toiletwater2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Tub area.</div>
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Under the old vanity. </div>
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Wires we ran during the big renovation for our CCTV cameras. </div>
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<a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel-phase-i-plan-costs.html" target="_blank">Check out Phase I - The Planning</a> <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel-phase-iii-construction.html" target="_blank">Or Phase III - Construction Begins</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-44497694263208042082016-10-14T10:04:00.000-04:002016-10-21T11:22:01.611-04:00Bathroom Remodel: Phase I - The Plan & BudgetBefore we started considering bath designs we wanted to know what elements constitute a good layout and use of space. For some helpful information we consulted guidelines put out by the <a href="https://www.nkba.org/Guidelines.aspx" target="_blank">National Kitchen & Bath Association</a>. This organization has a guide for their members but you can also <a href="http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/bath.design.rules.htm#.WAi3c_krJ8Z" target="_blank">see some of their recommendations in this link.</a><br />
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Budgeting for our bathroom remodel involving putting together an accurate floor plan diagram, material calculations, and labor cost estimates. We used a Visio diagram to guide our square footage calculations for tile, adding 10% for waste.<br />
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Here is a diagram of the final design.</div>
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The bath is about 8' by 7' and will feature a 36" vanity with a side linen cabinet. The shower will be a fully tiled (even the ceiling) enclosed custom neo-angle shower with storage niches. There will be can lighting and a light bar over the vanity mirror. We attempted to find a balance in the distribution of lighting the spaces in this windowless bathroom. The light in the shower is a vent fan combo providing exhaust along with another fan in the main area just outside the shower.</div>
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Since this is our main floor bathroom it's also the most used,
consequentially we wanted this project to go as quickly as possible. To speed things along we made an effort to pick out and acquired all of the materials and fixtures before starting the project.
Since we work full time jobs this also meant hiring a contractor to do some
of the labor. We contacted and had preliminary meetings with a local contractor we found using homeadvisor.com.<br />
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After a couple of meetings, the contractor provided an itemized breakdown of the work. This allowed us to see what items we wanted to tackle ourselves to reduce some of the cost.<br />
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Here are the detailed labor costs the contractor quoted:<br />
<ul>
<li>$1,160 - Remove, tub, vanity and toilet, drop ceiling, casement, base mouldings (saving?), and all plaster to the studs. <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel.html" target="_blank">We actually performed this task ourselves</a> which helped pay for some upgrades.</li>
<li>$500 - Replumb new shower fixture (owner provided), and drain for shower, and toilet, vanity locations.</li>
<li>$1,320 - Install concrete shower base, and prep tile walls w/Denshield board, include niche boxes, and waterproof for tile.</li>
<li>$650 - Rework electrical to include GFI and additional outlets, can and vanity lighting, and 2 light/ fan combos.</li>
<li>$350 - Remove and replace heat register from floor to wall.</li>
<li>$760 - Rework drywall prep for painting, include priming.</li>
<li>$445 - Install 1/2" Hardi Backer to floor, tile prep.</li>
<li>$1,500 - Install new floor tile, with mopboard, and wall tile shower area, including some mosaic pattern, and niche areas.</li>
<li>$140 - Install new accessories and vanity, linen, provided by owner. This is also something we felt we could take care of easily.</li>
<li>$800 - Install new shower door frameless glass.</li>
<li>$560 - Finish painting 2 coats and install base and casement mouldings. We opted to perform this task ourselves as well.</li>
</ul>
The total minus the tasks we were going to perform came to $6,325. <br />
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Again, none of this included materials, which we purchased ourselves. These included the tile, fixtures, cabinetry, lighting, switches, grout, paint, outlets, fans, toilet and other miscellaneous hardware like towel bars and drain cover.<br />
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We wanted a floor on the grey end of the color spectrum to hide dust and dirt, we also wanted a marble look for the shower without the hassle of using real marble. We checked about 5 different tile stores to look at tiles in person including The Tile Shop, Virginia Tile, Genesee Tile, and some other online providers that ship free samples. Oddly enough, we ended up finding the main tiles we liked at Menards, Lowes, and Home Depot, the last places we looked. This actually worked out well since we can return any unused material, in some instances, and quickly get any extra if it's needed during the project.<br />
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The main bathroom floor we chose was Home Depot Traffic Master 12"x 24" in Sidewalk Natural</div>
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The grout we planned on using was TEC DeLorean Grey attempting to match the tile color.</div>
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For the shower walls and ceiling we chose Titus Hill 4"x 8" Ceramic Tile from Menards.</div>
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To contrast the marble look shower tiles we chose TEC Sanded Grout in Dove Gray</div>
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For the shower floor we went with Style Selections Mitte Gray Porcelain Tile in a 2"x 2" mosic. This tile was a very close color match to the main floor tile.</div>
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For the fixtures we settled on chrome so it would be easy to match and coordinate. We would have liked stainless or brushed nickel for it's resistance to finger prints and water marks but it was difficult to find fixtures we liked to match them all in this finish. <br />
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We opted for the Kauai III Spray Hand Shower Combo since it provides both a rain style head and a separate adjustable head for a more traditional shower experience.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">For the sink faucet we decided to try out some of the latest technology in touchless/touch operated units. We went with the Addison Single Hole Single-Handle Bathroom Faucet in Chrome with Touch2O.xt Technology</span></span></span>
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For the vanity top we knew we wanted quartz since we have natural marble and granite in our other bathrooms. The natural stone materials just weren't holding up well to the abuse in those other areas. They would often get water stains and don't allow for the use of some common household cleaners.<br />
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At this point we aren't sure if we will use the vanity we selected or opt for a more custom approach using RTA (ready to assemble) items from cabinets.com. This will ultimately dictate the process we use for the customizing the vanity top or buying one prefab. Ultimately we may need to wait until the drywall is in so we can get a final measurement on the space available for the cabinetry.<br />
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More to come.... We'll update this as we finalize more of our plans, thanks for reading.<br />
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<br />
I hope this post helps with your design planning and renovation. Hopefully the budget line items give you some idea of the labor costs as well if you choose to have a contractor involved on your project. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2016/10/bathroom-remodel.html" target="_blank">Check out Phase II, the Demolition. </a></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-10680763732024800692016-10-13T14:07:00.002-04:002016-10-13T14:07:28.354-04:00Refinishing the DoorsDuring our renovation we decided to use<a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2013/07/old-doors-emerge.html" target="_blank"> some doors that we found in the barn</a>. We washed, stripped, and even rebuilt some of them. They were mostly usable but certainly in need of a coat of paint. Until now we hadn't got around to pulling them back off and giving them a final treatment. We started with a door on one of the bedroom closets.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Door ready for priming in the basement paint booth.</div>
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Two part epoxy was used to fill in unused holes.</div>
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Getting that first coat of primer on the door always accentuates multiple minor blemishes missed turning the first round of patching. Now is the time to correct them and sand everything flush again.<br />
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<br />
Well we just got word that the company we were looking at to handle some of our bathroom remodel has an opening in their schedule so I'll be shifting gears to the bathroom remodel and come back to the doors another time. I'll post back here with more details on the doors later.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-3255380986897546582016-03-17T10:30:00.001-04:002016-03-17T10:33:04.835-04:00Mosquito ControlIt was about our third year living on this farm that we experienced our first summer of mosquito swarms. There seemed to be a lull in the mosquito population some years but during the worst we would run from our car to the house in fear of the
little blood suckers. Standing water or moist areas are potential breeding grounds for mosquitoes. There are a number of ponds surrounding us and some soggy swampy areas directly across the street so we've donated our fair share of blood to the ecosystem over the years.<br />
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I don't bother with most "pests" in the yard unless they are destroying something or pose a risk. I let the spiders make their webs, the bees build their nests in the trees, the unnamed cats live in the barn, and the deer eat from the orchard. However, I just can't stand the darn mosquitoes! They ruin the outdoors making an evening on the porch unbearable. If they get the dog his eyes swell and the bites leave the kids with itchy welts that last for weeks. We were just sick of swatting at every little tickle we thought was a tiny vampire landing on our skin preparing for their meal.<br />
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Over the past few years I've steadily ramped up my approach to dealing with the pests and I think I've finally got a system that is both effective and safe. Things are better now, the thought of retreating and nuking the site from orbit no longer crosses my mind.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
So without further delay I hereby present you with:</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><i>THE</i></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>"What I'm Currently Doing to Control Mosquitoes"</b></i><br />
<i><b>PLAN </b></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
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<br />
A
large area, multifaceted approach is the best way deal with any mosquito population. Even though it may be a bit more costly up front to get the supplies you need for a broad spectrum attack; you will save money by not continually treating a renewing population. The aim is to treat all stages of growth; larvae, adolescent, and adult. If you only apply a knockdown agent for the adults, like malathion, your problem will probably be back in a week as the next brood matures.<br />
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Mosquitoes lay their eggs in water or moist areas. It's very
important to clean up any standing water. Dump out any buckets, bowls,
flower pots, check gutters, etc. Treat swampy and moist areas and any standing water
you can't dump with BTI bacteria. This type of bacteria can be found in
liquid form (with a shelf life of about 1 year) or in granular or
floating ring style, commonly called, "Mosquito Bits" and "Mosquito
Dunks", respectively. BTI is a naturally occurring bacillus that releases toxins into the gut of larvae. Mosquito eggs laid in water are clumps or individual larvae that
float just below the water's surface and extend a breathing tube to the air above. If you can do something to break up the surface
tension of standing water it could also cause these egg rafts to sink
and if it forms a film like soap or oil it would prevent larvae from
getting air with their breathing tubes.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="Product Details" class="s-access-image cfMarker" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51F-PdCsSiL._AA160_.jpg" height="160" width="160" /> <img alt="Product Details" class="s-access-image cfMarker" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Qhq8FYCAL._AA160_.jpg" height="160" width="160" /> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Summit-111-5-20-Pack-Mosquito-Dunk/dp/B0002568YA/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1458222521&sr=1-1&keywords=mosquito+dunks" target="_blank">Dunks</a> & <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Mosquito-Dunks-117-6-Bits-30-Ounce/dp/B0001AUF8G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&psc=1oh_details_o01_s00_i00%3Fie%3DUTF8&redirect=true&ref_=oh_details_o06_s00_i00" target="_blank">Bits</a></div>
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<br />
For the adult population I spray Bifenithrin in a 7.9% concentration. Bifen IT, the brand of bifenithrin I use, is a p<span class="st">yrethroid. P</span><span class="st">yrethroids are man made versions of pyrethrins, which come from concentrations extracted from dalmatian chrysanthemum flowers.</span> This particular brand uses a wax emulsion to help retain a residual of the application when exposed to rain. It has a rated residual of about 3 months but I find an application about every 6 weeks seems to be more effective depending on how precipitation has trended. Always spray when it's dry and no rain is forecast for the next 24 hours.<br />
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<img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQ5S426TyWRMd3O7eyX1MYW0Y9nKZGqWd4fwq1buSg0hOo8pF9rS57ulDE4FXy-z2m2v5vVU1j8sZAuNHfb_IfXGSKUXrzj4Ka90LediOKkuuF7wNfxGn7-mw7aKKEuxxM-6mcCwA-DLY/s200/31lX0S8lX8L.jpg" width="122" /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4Y286O/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank"> Bifen I/T</a> </div>
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If I'm spraying the first application of the year I add an insect growth regulator to my pyrethroid. I use NyGuard to keep the adolescent mosquitoes from maturing into adults, this prevents them from growing to the point where they are capable of reproducing. This product has a long residual so there may be no need to add it to subsequent pyrethroid applications. If you are using malathion never mix NyGuard with it as this will reduce the effectiveness of both. I've moved away from using Malathion in recent years. Malathion is
inexpensive, safe, and can be found in many home stores but it has a low
residual and is a little less 'natural' than Bifenithrin.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGycFyH4DA4mIBPIeOhyphenhyphenHt7Vu15vSD8jtcyuFo-MGOLk-79gdqSq1dlAC7mla3iK5oZSgcCtZz-sBEu2toNDZrEHt4oVJZuUmW1aruXHQBx5zAD5N5RVpQqK_wUAvatXLIhvJcEQqsxbKF/s1600/41L4h%252BqtlCL._SX425_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGycFyH4DA4mIBPIeOhyphenhyphenHt7Vu15vSD8jtcyuFo-MGOLk-79gdqSq1dlAC7mla3iK5oZSgcCtZz-sBEu2toNDZrEHt4oVJZuUmW1aruXHQBx5zAD5N5RVpQqK_wUAvatXLIhvJcEQqsxbKF/s200/41L4h%252BqtlCL._SX425_.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2R54QY/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">NyGuard</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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Applications are most efficiently misted with a droplet size within the 50-100 <span class="il">micron</span>
range to treat areas favored by the aedes and culex type mosquito
(common to Michigan). The underside of foliage, tall grasses, and dense
vegetation along with any noticed problem areas are prime targets. I use the Stihl 450 backpack sprayer for our 5 acres area. There are other sprayers out there but be sure it mists the product properly and doesn't result in a massive amount of floating over-spray like a fogger or wasted chemicals from large drop size with a common garden sprayer.<br />
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="Product Details" class="s-access-image cfMarker" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41VFo6Sd7nL._AA160_.jpg" height="160" width="160" /> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Solo Sprayer </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Stihl 450 Backpack Sprayer/Duster</div>
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I always work the property starting down wind so the natural air currents help distribute the spray into thick foliage and away from my body. Labels state that the application area for these chemicals is safe for pets and children after 30 minutes. Note: Many of these chemicals are toxic to fish and cats. I usually conduct my spraying when day activities are done in the evening, the mosquitoes are more active and I can let the application sit overnight.<br />
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I hope this information helps and that you might be able to adapt these tips to your own budget and landscape. Please follow all directing on the labeling for any product you use and be sure to wear the proper personal protection equipment when handling any chemicals.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-52946963510273334892016-02-22T08:29:00.001-05:002016-03-17T09:06:09.847-04:00Mudroom / Laundry Bench<br />
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Time to make some furniture. I'm making a bench for the laundry room so people can have a seat when dealing with their shoes. The bench will also provide some storage for hats, gloves, and other accessories. When it came time to paint the bench the project somehow branched out into multiple other projects.<br />
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Supporting and gluing up the frame.</div>
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Attaching the legs.</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Edge banding the plywood seat with solid material. Improvised to get a 'longer' clamp.</div>
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Made a custom router jig to plane the proud edges of the solid wood edge banding flush with the center plywood piece. This essentially floats the router bit only as high as the surface you place the thickest part on, which happens to be the plywood part of the seat.</div>
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Had to cut a hole in the back side of the bench to accommodate a wall outlet.</div>
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The next steps are to fill the grain, condition it with sanding sealer, sand, prime, and top coat with the HVLP gun. Since we had a number of doors and other things around the house to paint I decided to make a simple PVC paint booth in the basement.<br />
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The booth is about 10' X 13' and should allow work on multiple projects at once.</div>
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Everything is staged and ready to mix for spraying.</div>
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Here, we fit quite a few items inside the booth and painted 4 door sides, the bench top, parts of the bench, and a closet shelf at the same time. With the HVLP sprayer a coat was laid down on all of these in about 3 minutes, quite efficient.<br />
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While priming the back of the bench top I noticed two distinct areas of the surface where the wood had swelled and bubbled up significantly. I pushed on these spots and my finger when right through the veneer of the plywood. It turns out that this piece had a couple of voids in them from the manufacturing process. I had to fill them with a bondo type wood filler that uses a hardening agent, very stinky stuff.<br />
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I did find another void like the one above after another coat of primer and had to patch it as well. After the patches dried I had to sand and prime everything again, very frustrating.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-1198409076909868822015-07-30T19:17:00.003-04:002015-07-31T06:27:49.505-04:00Mouse Games<br />
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After a relaxing vacation in Michigan and down south with family in Kentucky we came home to find our mouse problem on the rise.<br />
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The traps around the basement had caught one while we were gone and another mouse a couple of days after our return. This situation leaves me pondering one very important question, "Where are they getting in" ??? I had already <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2015/01/rodent-exclusion.html" target="_blank">constructed a curtain wall</a> around the worst parts of the foundation. I had <a href="http://elbafarmhouse.blogspot.com/2015/05/basement-window-replacement.html" target="_blank">replaced the old broken basement windows</a>. It's time to change up the plan a little.<br />
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What ever shall I do?</div>
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I think I'll start feeding the mice and perhaps in return they will cooperate and tell me how they are getting into the house. Maybe they will also tell me where they are going once inside and if they happen to have a nest somewhere? Does that sound so crazy? Maybe my kids have subjected me to too much Mickey Mouse Clubhouse... oh Toodles!<br />
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A plan was hatched, no mousekatools required.</div>
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Before we started crating our dog we would use a black light flashlight to find urine spots. I tried the same with mouse urine but it wasn't detectable. However, I found some very bright florescent dust on amazon and thought it would leave a nice trail if I could somehow get the mouse coated in it.<br />
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Dust, food container, grass seed (bait).</div>
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It reacts nice and bright with the black light.</div>
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I thought I could impregnate some cotton balls with the dust as a transfer medium. </div>
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Shaking them in a bag worked out nice and didn't use much dust at all.</div>
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Now somehow I have to get them to take the cotton balls (for nesting material) and / or crawl through them.</div>
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After washing the dust off my hands I could no longer see any without the black light, but it was still there. If I do catch a mouse in the other traps I should certainly be able to identify if it had been in the cotton. <br />
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Some aromatic chocolates and dried strawberries were added as bait.<br />
It's become apparent that any further interaction with this stuff will require gloves and should probably be done outside.</div>
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Two entry holes were cut into the container on the opposite side from where most of the bait was.<br />
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It's a bit messy.</div>
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The whole contraption was placed directly in the crawl space.</div>
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There it is with the black light on it.</div>
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It's good at leaving an invisible mess.</div>
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After one day I checked the bait stash and noticed a cotton ball had been pulled out and there were definite tracks leading over to a brick structure in the crawl space.<br />
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I hope I don't find something nasty at the end of the trail like a large nest or this guy:</div>
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He just wanted the chocolates!...and maybe your skull.</div>
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After the second night more cotton was pulled out and there was a large
path running over to our foundation. I noticed a big pile under a hole in the spray foam insulation. <br />
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I'm going to let the bait sit until the weekend and see if there are any
other trails or areas of interest. After that I'll probably have to get in the
crawl space and dig out some insulation to see if I can identify an entry
point.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-71758550509041606762015-05-25T15:12:00.002-04:002015-05-25T15:14:59.485-04:00Basement Window Replacement<br />
We set out on the task to replace the old broken and rotten basement windows. Originally we had considered replacement hopper style windows that open allowing air flow. However, the dimensions of the window openings mandated that we would need to order a custom size window as opposed to using a standard size $70 version from the local home store. Custom hopper windows, it turns out, cost a lot more in a non-standard size. A local company had quoted us $350 each to replace our current windows with new hopper style vinyl windows. A much less expensive option was to go with glass block. We compromised and ordered our glass block windows with a vent that would allow air flow.<br />
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Over the years the glass window panes had broken for various
reasons. In one instance a lightning strike close to the house had shattered one sending shards into the basement.<br />
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This window was fitted with a dryer exhaust tube to facilitate laundry in the basement during major house construction. The insulation to either side was to plug panes where the glass had broken.<br />
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Patches cut from scrap materials had been somewhat effective in keeping the elements out. <br />
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Only two of the four windows seemed to have retained their glass over the years. There were many other issues with moisture and drafts seeping in around all of them. <br />
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For some reason there was an electrical outlet wired outside one of the windows. I'm told this was used as a convenient power supply for outdoor equipment. I bet the local inspector would love this. It must come out as part of this job.<br />
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Each window had a mesh screen in front of it. I'm not sure what this material is but it became quite brittle and useless over the years. <br />
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The old window may have tipped out or been removable at some point, but it was screwed shut and had been painted over a few times by now. It was stuck in the frame quite well and needed a bit of coaxing to get it out in one piece, avoiding more shattered glass. <br />
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Prying around it and lightly tapping from the outside allowed us to pop out the windows in one piece. The next task was to cut out the frame.<br />
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A sawzall was used to make a cut in the bottom of the frame creating a good spot to pry it up.<br />
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Next, each side was pried away from the stone foundation. <br />
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The old stone mortar was in poor condition and simply brushed off the rocks. These areas will need to be repaired as part of the process. Much of the old mortar on the bottom sill was powdered as well and had to be chipped and vacuumed off.<br />
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The top frame was cut in a similar fashion to the bottom and came out as the sides were bent inward.<br />
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The bottom of the frame was very close to becoming dirt. They had been so damaged by moisture that there were plant root systems growing in them.<br />
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The sides were re-mortared and later tooled flat. One window had a cavernous gap on both sides where the mortar was gone; it took about 40 pounds of mortar to plug some gaps and bring the sides back where they needed to be.<br />
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Next the new window was shimmed into place tight against the wood beam above. Mortar was added under and around the window and allowed to cure for an hour or so.<br />
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A shim screwed to the top beam helped prevent the window from falling inward while it was being positioned.<br />
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After the mortar cured enough to support the weight of the windows the shims were removed and the gaps they left were filled with more mortar.<br />
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An angled shelf was tooled into place once the shims were out, this should help water shed away from the foundation. Any time we added or manipulated the mortar we kept a sponge handy to wipe up any mortar film that had got on the window.<br />
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Inside, the mortar was brushed and blended using a whisk broom to match the finish of the surrounding walls.<br />
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This process was repeated 3 more times and we had our 4 windows done.<br />
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Here's the final product. We'll wait 30+ days for the mortar to cure to a low moisture content then paint the inside white like the rest of the wall. <br />
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Hopefully these windows will withstand the elements better than the previous ones. We might also build wood framed screens to go in front of these to hide the block and simulate the look of the older windows.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-32820514558617929792015-04-10T12:42:00.003-04:002015-04-10T12:42:41.499-04:00Old Basement RepaintAfter we finished the rodent exclusion project we had the ducts cleaned and disinfected in the old side of the basement. Our hopes are that we will never have mice making a mess of the basement or our ducts again so we proceeded to give the basement walls and floor a fresh coat of paint.<br />
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Before the fresh coat: </div>
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We also built a set of shelves to hold the many bins we still have. </div>
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I think the next task will be to replace the 4 old broken windows in the old basement.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-24194860434646906992015-01-11T14:41:00.002-05:002015-01-23T10:59:05.613-05:00Rodent ExclusionIt's always been quite annoying setting mouse traps throughout the basement, finding little droppings around the HVAC system, and discovering the occasional occupied trap only after the putrid smell of rotten rodent permeated the basement. Yum.<br />
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Hoping to put an end to the mild infestation we began poking around the basement looking for and plugging up any entry point. One suspicious and mysterious spot is our crawl space, we know woodchucks and squirrels had made it into the house via this space once upon a time. It's incredibly difficult to get to the exterior wall of the crawl space from the inside so we decided to apply some construction techniques from the outside.<br />
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The particular part of the wall that concerned us was under the front porch. There were a couple of spots under there where animals had burrowed through the rock wall and gotten into the crawl space. In the past we had simply taken out a few of the porch floor boards and poured concrete into the holes. In hindsight this probably wasn't the best approach, although at that time our living situation warranted a quick fix.<br />
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There is a handy guide to rodent exclusion techniques on the interwebs here:<br />
http://icwdm.org/handbook/rodents/RodentExclusion.asp<br />
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They outline methods for both rats and mice.<br />
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The approach we decided to take was to build a concrete curtain wall with a hardware cloth upper extension. We wanted to be as close to 100% positive that this would no longer be a trouble spot as we could. <br />
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The design calls for a 1 foot wide trench, a poured footer, and a 4 inch backing wall tapered up to the existing foundation.
I aimed for a 36" deep trench but only got about 24" deep in some spots.
This projects took us the month of November to complete working weekends
and holiday breaks.<br />
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Step 1, destruction!<br />
We tore off the porch floor boards. All of them except the ones that ran under the supporting pillars. They were toe nailed in from the sides so we had to slide a sawzall under each joist and cut each board free.<br />
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The rotted porch steps were also dismantled. These will eventually be replaced with steps and a railing that match the wrap around porch on the back of the house.<br />
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Step 2, dig.<br />
The trench was dug the entire length of the porch plus under the door from which the pictures below were taken. Some cats decided to stop by to see what was going on.<br />
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Step 3, setup shop.<br />
To combat the cold temperatures for a good cure we wrapped the work area in plastic and plugged up gaps around the bottom with insulation and dirt. We tried to keep the inside temps above 40 degrees Fahrenheit to help the concrete hydration process. Using a space heater and insulating the fresh pours helped during the frigid nights. We weren't overly concerned with the strength of the final wall as it wasn't' structural.<br />
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Step 4, pour.<br />
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The mixing station was at the end of the porch where we combined hot water with 60 lb bags of concrete in 5 gallon buckets stirring with a shovel.<br />
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I should note that before pouring any new concrete we did some repairs to the rubble stone foundation. We used S-type mortar to place rocks back into and fill holes where the old mortar had failed. So maybe that was step 3.5?<br />
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The footing was poured first with a wire mesh flashed up the back and sides to connect the future wall.<br />
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Next a simple form for the wall was dropped into the ditch and supported. This form held the concrete in place while it cured to form the tapered barrier wall against the stone foundation. 1/4" hardware cloth was tucked up underneath the siding and down into the top taper of the concrete to form a barrier for any remaining exposed wall.<br />
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The form was gradually moved down the length of the ditch to complete the wall a piece at a time. <br />
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The footer was extended down the wall preceding each new vertical section.<br />
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Step 5, bury all the hard work.<br />
It's a shame to cover up all that hard work but we are glad to bury it and be done. The dirt was compacted as it was replaced in the ditch and the floor boards were placed back on the porch. We numbered each board before we took them off so they would go back on in the same spot. There were a couple of cold days on this project but it was completed before the extreme cold weather started kicking in this year.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-75280802294065093402014-08-03T10:11:00.002-04:002014-08-03T10:11:35.813-04:00Gutter Drain Project II<br />
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The great gutter drain project... II</div>
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Where were we.. ah yes, we got the pile of rocks we needed for the well.</div>
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Next we just dig a hole, line it with fabric, put the rocks in with the flo well, and cover it all up.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">Easy right?</span></b></div>
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It turns out the specs for the amount of run off we have call for a 7 foot deep hole with a 10 foot diameter, there are 14 tons of rocks, about 200 feet of fabric lining, and the dirt is mostly clay.<br />
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Time to bring out the big guns, neighbor Larry and his Case 580 to the rescue!</div>
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With Larry's help we were able to get the fabric in along with 3' of rock in a few hours.<br />
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The next day I wrapped the dry flo well with fabric, and glued up pipe out to the center of the hole. Then I finished filling the hole with rock up to the flo well top edge. We were able to ditch some of the junk rock we had laying around from construction into the pit.<br />
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Another couple of loads then we folded the fabric over the well and packed dirt back into the hole. We extra care to ensure the pipe had packed support from below and all sides.<br />
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Also, in other news, for some reason day care sent my son home with an interesting hairdo. </div>
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And my Dad came over with his new toy.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-20273834728498438192014-07-23T10:08:00.001-04:002014-07-24T13:27:44.685-04:00Gutter Drain Project I<br />
We were a little tired of having mud rivers in our backyard each time we got a down pour. So we decided to pipe the gutters underground to a dry well system. Below is the basic plan we used to figure our materials list. The pipe run extends about 100 feet from the house.<br />
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The grade in the backyard was more than sufficient to keep the pipe angle in the ditch on track without having to dig deeper as the pipe made the long run out to the dry well. We opted to solvent weld schedule 40 pvc for the system for it's strength. Should heavy equipment ever need to venture into the backyard we wanted to minimize any impact it could have on the system.<br />
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Starting on the west end of the porch we buried pipe for a downspout on the side of the house and two that are connected to the porch pillars. <br />
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From there the pipe wrapped around the stairs to meet up with the main trunk.<br />
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Lines from the east side of the porch were also tied into the main line. Portions were glued up and buried as we progressed. Many of the pipes protruding upwards in the pictures are there just to keep dirt from getting into the system while digging.<br />
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From there the run continued down the slope and away from the house. Our depth was kept a bit more than 24" below the surface. <br />
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Once we got close to the brush we made a 22.5 degree turn toward the planned dry well location.<br />
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Aiden was a bit curious about the pits developing in the yard.</div>
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On occasion Buster has chased chipmunks into some gutters we have lying behind our garage. His chipmunk chasing has resulted in him assuming there is always something hiding in any type of pipe. After hearing a shovel full of dirt hit the pipe as it was buried he frantically wanted to get at the imaginary critter. He kept barking into the pipe and clawing at the open end.<br />
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Aiden decided he also wanted to take a turn barking into the tube. </div>
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Washed stone has arrived for phase 2.... digging and installing the dry well. </div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-27044480850182810142014-06-18T21:02:00.001-04:002014-06-18T21:02:29.711-04:00Pillar Topping, Lights & Skeeters<br />
The header beam that the porch pillars support isn't quite as wide as the decorative caps at the top of the pillar. This leave about a 1/2" gap where all sorts of bugglys have decided to explore this summer. It won't be long before some mean spirited bees decide it's a great place to build a cozy home for their queen, ruining our porch time. We decided to get ahead of this problem and seal up the gap.<br />
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I decided to use some of the left over siding to make little shims that could fit inside the decorative cap then be caulked shut.<br />
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Made some relief cuts on a stack of shims to make cutting the pillar profile curve a lot easier. </div>
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Then I just mounted them in the right spot to fit up in the cap.</div>
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Here is an example of the inhabitants.</div>
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There were plenty of pillars to keep me busy for a couple of days.</div>
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The backyard is still quite destroyed.<br />It's about to get worse as we prep to dig trenches for the gutter drainage system. <br /></div>
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Also put a little time in to finish the under cabinet lighting. Jess is getting ready for canning season. I think we have about 500 jars in storage bins. I wonder if I could convince a friend of mine to fill any unused jars with delicious mead.</div>
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The mosquitos were getting quite bad at the beginning of the season so I laid down some treatment. <br />
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The wife snapped a picture of me in my mosquito elimination outfit hahaha.. what a dork... but a good misting in the appropriate areas with Nyguard IGR and Bifen I/T along with some BTI bacteria for larvicide will keep the little blood suckers at bay for the next month.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-727689184841672311.post-22399347897738303382014-05-20T21:08:00.000-04:002014-05-21T07:57:51.202-04:00Chipper & Wagon Build<br />
Evidence of the large ice storm we experienced this winter was everywhere. Twisted half-broken branches are still dangerously perched up in the trees and the ground is littered with smaller sections we tried to cut and consolidate months ago.<br />
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Fortunately, we had the family help organize the yard over Easter. We got the larger branches into manageable piles and even cleared out the front yard flower beds. <br />
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Here are some of the problem areas:</div>
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In a normal year we would gather up the brush and burn it in our fire pit. We also seem to keep adding to the large brush pile on the far side of the property. We keep telling our neighbor, "This is the year, we are getting rid of that pile!". Yet, somehow it keeps growing... This year we have a different tractic, we got this little guy to help out:<br />
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<span id="goog_82557791"></span><span id="goog_82557792"></span><br />
It's a PTO wood chipper. Making our own chips will be a great way to replenish bedding for the flower beds and garden without having to get mulch delivered. Being a 3pt PTO piece of equipment will really help us move it around and take it to the wood rather than hauling all the branches around the yard.<br />
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Oh.. and before you ask, yes.. I have seen Fargo. <br />
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Our other recent project helps out with the product of this whole process. We've been working on a wagon style dump cart to haul the chips and get them closer to their final destination..<br />
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I opted to try a 3.5" 2500 psi hydro cylinder. The cylinder is double action but the pump is single acting. This turned out to be a mistake later on as a double acting pump would have been a bit better. The weight of the bed doesn't quite bring it down when fully extended, it needs a little help.</div>
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There weren't many options for mounting a pump and battery on the wagon as it comes so I set about welding up some supports. I found these old porch supports laying around the farm and decided to re-purpose them.<br />
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This added cross section will support the pump and reservoir. Drilled a couple of holes in the added framing to fit screws into the bottom of the pump housing. Also tied the ground strap to this location. <br />
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Next I needed to support the battery. I was out of room in the middle
section of the cart so I decided to make a side carriage of sorts. <br />
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All the connections were welded with E6011. The tractor and chain were used to hold the frame in some of the more awkward positions for welding.</div>
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It's all in there, I think I still need to alter the configuration a
bit. I'll probably flip the cylinder (rotate in position) so the hydro
hoses loop around front and don't turn so sharp.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnkEWiAUjNFssRPrAV6_LEJlfzeMvTPig-tnm4wjPgT63dFhkzKlYNY4mBUgZyftxWGgCN97WAL8lCZYiT8qB0u6LsT0L3RjVB89S-oeNmMU-jG0tI8a-9Hv-udM6kx6CWi6InULG44ipQ/s1600/wagon8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnkEWiAUjNFssRPrAV6_LEJlfzeMvTPig-tnm4wjPgT63dFhkzKlYNY4mBUgZyftxWGgCN97WAL8lCZYiT8qB0u6LsT0L3RjVB89S-oeNmMU-jG0tI8a-9Hv-udM6kx6CWi6InULG44ipQ/s1600/wagon8.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm also experimenting with some way to keep debris and water off the
pump and battery components. I'd like some protection but I'm also
afraid of trapping moisture under the bed wood.<br />
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Here it is before the final adjustment of the underbelly water protection:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx_cqJL7i47OHLPyzkyZ9eN7Oefagi-nnM04fH3VG0ym3SmjvsTJheY5d2K-v6O5hw3YNctbfdgvVvoQnhyPonl4xrlzdv1X7Muewn1SMSVFfQMrFcLKL5LVGqwfvq3LiXm-fvGurhyXXX/s1600/IMG_9699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx_cqJL7i47OHLPyzkyZ9eN7Oefagi-nnM04fH3VG0ym3SmjvsTJheY5d2K-v6O5hw3YNctbfdgvVvoQnhyPonl4xrlzdv1X7Muewn1SMSVFfQMrFcLKL5LVGqwfvq3LiXm-fvGurhyXXX/s1600/IMG_9699.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></div>
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To get the tractor, wagon, and chipper around the yard together I made a
custom hitch. The chipper came in a metal crate, I cut up the crate and
used the angle iron to fashion a hitch that clips onto the bottom frame
of the chipper.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuRWrpfvfAiY3D5V94exCQzgpLMiFOaNrN2gwf2x9Be_yUcgFf7EjabdUjxLa_sA6LnZWF0zHNhLmmVpOoKSiYucCDTnOE8dT8hUm0fJF8hB0xXy6auFLC-eoMtsa047S_19VjDYWCHtru/s1600/IMG_9736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuRWrpfvfAiY3D5V94exCQzgpLMiFOaNrN2gwf2x9Be_yUcgFf7EjabdUjxLa_sA6LnZWF0zHNhLmmVpOoKSiYucCDTnOE8dT8hUm0fJF8hB0xXy6auFLC-eoMtsa047S_19VjDYWCHtru/s1600/IMG_9736.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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It all works together quite nicely.</div>
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With everything ready to roll I set about feeding the chipper. It worked out
quite well. You can feed up to an 8" wide log into it. If you can get
some of the larger branches trimmed up correctly you can feed what
amounts to a small tree into this thing. <br />
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Full load after chipping a big pile that was overwhelming the fire pit.</div>
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Dumping it near the front yard flower beds. It's interesting backing up a wagon compared to a trailer.</div>
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Hydraulics handle it with no strain. Still need to find a way to keep the hydro remote up and out of the way, some sort of clip or cord holder on the side perhaps.</div>
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A nice pile for the front flower beds.</div>
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